Here’s a short vlog of the Lomochrome Color’92 sample roll going through re-spooling, home development, and some of the results that I got with it: youtube.com/shorts/1vlwzcd….
As you can see from the video, Color’92 negatives are pretty dark compared to other C-41 films (Portra 800 in this case), but that shouldn’t cause any issues with scanning. I haven’t tried printing it in a darkroom though.
My negatives turned out looking very purple. Here’s what one of the frames in this article looks like on film. I had no issues with it after scanning. Hope this helps!
Edit: I replied earlier but it didn’t show up on the article because of a bug. I fixed it, so, hopefully, no more lost replies. 😅
I really enjoy the tendency of these cameras to shoot at wider apertures. Most point-and-shoots tend to avoid narrow depths of field, which makes Mju I/LT-1 somewhat special. Aside from minimizing motion blur, their lenses render bokeh beautifully to my eye.
It seems to like to shoot wide open as well, though maybe not too the extreme the mju ii does. You can actually find the exposure chart of mju II online and it starts to stop down after 1/125th (it goes to down to 1/1000 @ f11 in bright light so no f16 or smaller!). It’s a great camera but I also have a lot of slightly out of focus shots because of this.
Yeah, that‘s possible. On my mju I, and especially the mju II the lens seems to be almost better at close range though. I have some extremely crisp portraits with the mju ii where you can see every detail in the hair, fabrics, skin etc.
The AF-600 is actually quite well known for the lens and it’s size, and still not too expensive for some reason. The Fuji DL-500 is more overlooked but actually the more enjoyable camera in real use imo. It goes by like 10 different names (no kidding: camera-wiki.org/wiki/Fuji_…)
I’ve always wanted to try the Tiara and I have seen some very nice shots taken with it. But I have never found a good deal on it, and the ebay prices are a bit more than I would like to pay for a compact.
Shame about the softening of the lens at close focus. I have a Nikon AF600, it’s almost as small as both the TC-1 and the Tiara, 28mm and the lens is just incredibly sharp at around infinity. But at closer range it’s a lot softer for some reason. So soft I was wondering if there was some sort of focus calibration error. But no, after checking it’s just a lot softer at those ranges unfortunately. At 5m-infinity it’s probably one of the sharpest point and shoots. The Tiaras older brother the Fuji DL-500 is another overlooked 28mm point and shoot. Lens is very good, but probably not as the Tiara, small size, and best of all it moves the lens into focus at half press like the TC-1 making it very snappy and enjoyable to use. These can be had fairly cheap as well.
hello, was happy to buy it with the flash and the manual at $5 this weekend. I’m glad i have the manual since it explains that to dial the film ASA setting you must put the focus at infinite, that helps quite a lot! :)
1. Go outside in full sun. Point your camera at something brightly lit, and press the shutter button while listening and observing your camera’s lens. The shutter should be very fast and the aperture must look tiny. If your camera defaults to ISO 100 film, it should fire at about 1/125s with an f/16 aperture. It’s often the smallest aperture and highest shutter speed.
2. Go indoors and turn off your camera’s flash. Point it at a dim corner (some cameras will need a certain minimum of light, so look for the darkest spot your camera will work on). Your aperture should look the largest and the shutter should stay open noticeably longer, between 1/15th of a second and 2+ seconds.
3. Your camera isn’t working right if: a) it does not show a noticeable difference in shutter speeds between the outdoor sun and dim indoors, b) if your camera’s shutter is unexpectedly slow in the sun (i.e., like in this video: youtube.com/shorts/A0RTrKh…), c) if your camera’s shutter is unexpectedly fast indoors.
Note that this test does not verify your camera’s accuracy — just whether it works or not.
If you haven’t yet seen Dustin’s Kodak factory tour, you should. It’s a three-part documentary that’s enchantingly informative and awe-inspiring.
When I saw this video, my appreciation for colour film production increased tenfold. I also found the series therapeutic — it helped me realize that film photography is greater than me, greater than Analog.Cafe, and it is still likely to last beyond my time.
There’s a lot you can do to clean up even the worst examples of scratches on film.
I’ve recently fixed an image that came out appallingly bad. I needed it for my review article (analog.cafe/r/peak-design-…) and couldn’t re-shoot it in time.
Cleaning this frame up was a gruelling process, but I wanted to document it on video to give some context for what the process may be like for whoever is about to attempt something similar.
I’ve compressed about three hours of my recorded work into this 15-second video: youtube.com/shorts/F-6kp5t….
There’s a ton of choice out there. Mju II is a versatile camera that can shoot anything with a DX code.
If you prefer to use the built-in flash as little as possible and have the least motion and lens blur in your photos, an ISO 800 film will work well. I really enjoyed Portra 800 (analog.cafe/r/kodak-portra…) although it is on a pricey side.
If you like fine grain in colour, Kodak Ektar can do that for you and it also tends to produce saturated, contrasty images (analog.cafe/r/kodak-ektar-…) — although you may need to make some colour corrections in post if you’re shooting portraits.
I’ve also recently reviewed ColorPlus (analog.cafe/r/kodak-colorp…) which is the cheapest colour film on the market. Not everyone likes its colours, but good scans can create neat old-school-looking images.
There are a bunch more reviews at analog.cafe/film-photograp… or if you have any ideas on the kinds of images you want to make, I can give you some more options to consider.
I haven’t mentioned any slide and effect films, but those could be cool to try too — if you haven’t shot them before.
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