Film Ferrania resumes production of its ISO 160 P33 black-and-white film.
The Italian company has been out of view for several years, apparently due to internal issues that were recently resolved through a change of ownership.
Late last year, Film Ferrania announced the resumption of production, and their recent update seems to make good on that promise.
Last year’s update and further info about Film Ferrania business and films: analog.cafe/comments/1k81
Glad I found this site. I learned the hard way with custom-cut light seals. The strips were all too wide, causing them to tilt and the adhesive to stick out and to the sides.
The method described on this site seems more difficult to apply, especially cutting the narrowest 1mm strips to the correct width (Nikon FE, door edges), but hey, you don’t have to do it every week.
TIL: You can use *uncontaminated* C-41 fixer for black-and-white film.
I had an extra bottle of Flic Film C-41 Rapid Fixer concentrate and a few rolls of black-and-white film that needed processing. Rodinal was on hand, but no monochrome fixer. So I’ve looked and learned that an extra bottle of my colour-negative film fixer may be compatible, as long as it isn’t used for C-41 film (due to potential contamination with bleach). And I gave it a go.
So far, no signs of fading or fogging. Excellent contrast (this…
The original Olympus Pen and Pen S are other top-tier options for completely manual camera without a light meter. And they are elegant. Differences between them: lens and modern shutter speeds on the S.
Same here! Tri-X for me is the easiest to get a “ready” image from whereas HP5 has many possibilities for pushing, pulling, and unusual development methods 👍
It’s added to my recent thoughts of art vs design and makes sense that those qualities would reach audiences more effectively are what designers and marketers strive for.
Interesting. I often go back and forth between HP5 and Tri-X based on whichever is cheaper at the moment. I shoot more 400 ISO black and white than anything else. Sometimes I tell myself I like Tri-X better because of the higher contrast, but with HP5 I can always increase the final contrast anyway so it’s not even as good of a reason as it sounds!
Ektar is not an inferior film as Portra, but another professional film. It has smaller grain and a saturated color usually more suited for landscape and general photography, other than portrait and fashion, that is what the palette of Portra was created for.
So said, I expected different pictures of such combination of film and lens. Ektar gives saturated, vibrant colors and a huge exposure latitude and the Minitar lens is famous for its contrast (well, and for the vignetting, of course). Maybe you pushed it?
I love this and feel quite inspired to experiment with push/pull processing.
To me these images look fantastic! I’m not one for trying to nail the perfect focus or getting the exposure bang on, I prefer to be surprised by the resulting photographs as soon as I have developed and scanned. This is purely my own preference of course, but it’s why my R6 MK2 is mostly used for scanning while 90% of my photos are captured on film.
I will definitely be experimenting with the few rolls of HP5 I have with some spare…
Blue tack is great for keeping tiny parts like screws, gears and springs in one place. Separate blobs for keeping together parts from different assemblies. Just remember to make sure none adheres to the items as you take them up for reassembly.
Dmitri
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mootro
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Mark Andrew Tapia
Mark Andrew Tapia
Dmitri
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Kym M
Kym M
Kaiser
Andrés PB
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Wurzel
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Jon Archibald