Yashica T5/Kyocera T-Proof Camera Review

Yashica T5, a.k.a Yashica T4 Super D, a.k.a Kyocera T-Proof is a Japanese point-and-shoot film camera with a unique TLR-like scope and a well-regarded Carl Zeiss lens.

The camera’s plastic housing may not make it appear valuable, but these Yashicas certainly sell as such, not the least due to the weatherproofing and other comfort features (such as macro-level close-focusing), which are rarely found in other film cameras.

In this review, I’ll cover specs, usability, the lens, and the usefulness of the touted TLR-like Super Scope experience. I’ll also share a few tips for getting better images with this exceptionally fun premium point-and-shoot.

In this review: Yashica T5’s Super Scope. Specs and features. Weatherproofing. Build quality. Yashica T5 in use: tips and ergonomics. 35mm Carl Zeiss Tessar 𝒇3.5 T* lens image quality. Yashica T4 vs. Yashica T5/T4 Super. How much does Yashica T5 cost, and where to find one. Support this blog & get premium features with GOLD memberships!

I’ve had the pleasure of weighing this camera’s quirks and features over the past few months with over a dozen rolls of film through both nice and naughty weather. I played with it in the cozy summer neighbourhood streets and I had it with me in the cold mountain rain as I trekked across British Columbia’s soaring valleys.

I’ve put my T5 through a lot and it survived just fine. I would’ve never dreamed of treating any of my film point-and-shoots this way.

Along with my T5, I’ve also got to briefly try a related point-and-shoot: Yashica T4. The T4 has similar features but no weatherproofing and no Super Scope. I’ll compare both cameras in greater detail below.

Before I ever got to try the T5, I knew about weatherproofing and how important it can be on rugged trips. But what is a Super Scope? The first thing I thought of this feature was its remarkable resemblance to my TLR cameras — but it’s not exactly the same.

Yashica T5’s Super Scope.

Yashica Super Scope is a small window on the top plate of the camera that shows the approximate view that the lens will receive. It’s very small but still usable and surprisingly bright.

The experience of using Super Scope (also called N.A. Scope on some models) is nearly identical to that of a true TLR camera, like that of the Bolsey C, but the physics of its operation are a little different.

Just like on a TLR, Yashica T5’s Super Scope shows the image mirrored left-to-right using a separate lens from the main picture-taking glass. However, Super Scope is technically a brilliant finder, as it does not use a ground glass projection; instead, it’s a direct mirror reflection with clever optics that simulate the focal length of the camera’s Carl Zeiss T* lens.

Super Scope will not give you a preview of the depth of field, but it will also be brighter than most ground-glass TLR finders (despite being tiny). If you ever tried to take photos of flowers, mushrooms, or anything low to the ground on film, you’d appreciate this feature. Whereas other cameras would have you lie in the dirt and contort your neck, with Super Scope, you can place your T5 on the ground and look from above. You can also use it to shoot over the hedge/fence/or people’s heads at an event.

Super Scope isn’t as precise as the main finder. It has a significant crop factor (the real picture will have a lot more showing on the sides that the scope won’t). The scope is also small, so it’s not very useful from a distance further than a meter or three feet away. All this to say that it’s not realistic to use it every time. However, in certain situations, it’s the only way to capture a scene and it’s a good creative device to try something new. Besides, it doesn’t have to be overly accurate as the built-in automation on Yashica T5 takes care of the exposure and focus.

 ☝︎ Further reading: “A brief history of the Yashica/Kyocera T-series.”

Specs and features.

Yashica T5’s Carl Zeiss Tessar T* 35mm 𝒇3.5 lens can close down to 𝒇15.5, and its shutter can fire between 1 and 1/700th of a second. It has a built-in dual-SPD metering system that can automatically compensate for backlit scenes. The camera accepts 35mm films with DX-coded ISO speeds of 50-3200 and defaults to ISO 100. It has a multi-point IR autofocus mechanism with focus-lock and the closest focus distance of .35m/1’1”.

Its flash is active between .35m-3m with ISO 100 films and .35m-6m with ISO 400 films. It recharges in 3.5s (according to the manual) but can take up to 10 seconds with a depleting CR123 battery. A new battery should last about 20 rolls of film.

T5 is on the bulkier side, especially when compared to some of the smallest premium 35mm film cameras; it measures 118mm × 64mm × 42mm (4.65” × 2.52” × 1.65”) and weighs 200g/7oz. The T4 Super variant (the one without the date back) is 2mm slimmer and 10g lighter.

Weatherproofing.

Yashica T5 is weatherproof; however, it is not waterproof. This means it can be freely used in the rain or snow, but the manufacturer strongly advises against significant water pressure, including washing under tap water and especially submerging to any depth.

Note that the translucent lens cover, “Auto Lens Barrier,” will not prevent water from reaching the lens (by design), but it’s still useful to keep the droplets off the glass as they will interfere with the image.

Weatherproofing is more than rain protection. Dust and sand can cause all kinds of havoc for film camera gear. If any gets inside, it could contaminate lubrication and cease all mechanical operation. Most other cameras may need a pricey CLA service. But Yashica T5’s hermetic seals can protect its internals from some exposure to the elements — as long as you remember to wipe it with a damp cloth after the fact.

Being a motorized point-and-shoot built in the 1990s, Yashica’s drives are somewhat noisy. However, the thick rubber weatherproofing seals dampen those sounds sufficiently, making it one of the quietest point-and-shoot cameras of the era.

One thing to watch out for is the tight-fitting film and battery doors, which can be difficult to pry open due to the rubber seals squeezing them shut.

Build quality.

Yashica T5 is a practical camera by design. Its shell is made of plastic; it’s not particularly slim or pocket-fitting. Many copies that you’ll find online (including mine) have noticeable scratch marks, which I would argue are the result of their previous owner’s inability to part with the camera.

But despite the lack of fancy titanium, brass, or even aluminum enclosure, the T5 is a sturdy, well-built camera that is very easy to use and it can handle a lot of abuse. I took mine on a grimy, rained-on camping trip that would’ve destroyed another camera of this age in minutes. Throughout the entire 3-day trek, it performed flawlessly.

So what you’re paying for with this design isn’t an impeccable appearance or the jeweller’s finish and materials. Instead, you’re getting a fun, dependable point-and-shoot that can last through any weather, a reliable travel companion.

Yashica T5 in use: tips and ergonomics.

T5 is easy to use, sturdy, and more versatile than most point-and-shoot cameras. Of course, it’s not perfect, as such a thing may not even exist.

Loading film is no different from any other point-and-shoot (just insert the roll and ensure the film tip aligns with the green maker). Because the film door has a rubber o-ring, closing it takes extra effort as it fits very tightly.

This camera’s main two controls are the power/lens cover toggle and the shutter button. The large toggle button, which you can see on the front of the camera, is very intuitive. It slides the translucent cover from the lens and gives it a way to extend via a small internal motor. Once you’re ready to put the camera back into your pocket, the toggle can be slid back, which will first retract the lens and then slip the cover over automatically. This smooth action isn’t a given; even the relatively pricey Fujifilm Tiara will have you slide a thin lid until it hits the lens, then wait a second until you can proceed with closing the camera.

In the rain, the power toggle can stiffen slightly, whereas the rest of the controls continue to work normally.

The shutter button is very nice. It’s soft enough to help avoid camera shake, and it makes it very easy to feel the difference between the focus/exposure lock half-press and the final shutter action.

The only issue I have with the controls is the position of the lens: holding T5 with one hand is a little awkward as there’s little space for the middle finger and the thumb to hold on to. It would’ve been more comfortable if the lens was closer to the opposite side of the camera, leaving more space for the right hand to grasp. Nevertheless, the rubber grip that you can see on the front of the camera is very helpful in keeping the camera from slipping away.

The viewfinder on T5 is decent. It’s bright, but there isn’t great eye relief, so you may miss small parts of the frame if you’re wearing glasses. The parallax markings and the focus/exposure area lines are drawn in black, which is enough for most scenes but are hard to see in subdued light. To be fair, this is a common design on most 1990s point-and-shoots.

The Super Scope finder gives even less information than the regular viewfinder: just the thin black crosshairs for you to see where the camera will approximately focus. It’s perfectly usable with glasses on, and in a pinch, the lack of info isn’t a problem since the camera provides full automatic exposure and focus control.

T5 supports focus and exposure locking. If you want to focus/expose for something that’s not in the center of the frame, you can point your camera’s crosshairs on it, half-press and hold the shutter button, then recompose and take your shot by squeezing the button down fully.

T5 will also automatically compensate backlit scenes by adjusting its exposure settings or setting off the flash. Together with focus and exposure lock, this feature solves most of the issues occurring in difficult lighting.

When you half-press the shutter button and the camera successfully finds focus, a green bulb next to the finder will light up. It will continue staying lit if you keep your finger on the button in that position. This is very helpful for focus locking; however, you won’t see the light if you’re using Super Scope. The green bulb will flash if the camera can’t find the focus.

An orange bulb next to the finder (again, not visible while using Super Scope) will light up if the camera is going to discharge flash for your shot or as an indicator of low light. It will blink while the flash is charging and prevent you from taking pictures at that time if the flash is enabled. However, it will not prevent you from shooting low-light scenes.

I found that this camera will show a subdued light warning a little early for my liking (it does so when the shutter needs to fire at about 1/60th of a second or slower). Because of T5’s excellent shutter button design and the vibration-free leaf shutter, I’m comfortable shooting it at 1/30th or even 1/15th of a second. If you understand exposure well (whether with a light meter or via the Sunny 16 rule), you can ignore the warning light in certain conditions.

If the above sounds foreign to you, just make sure the flash is on if you see a red bulb lighting up next to your finder — or use a tripod. The flash is on by default in low-light scenes; if you disable it, the camera re-enable the default again after your turn it off.

You can change how your camera focuses and uses flash with the ⚡️ button on the top plate. There are five flash modes: auto flash (default), red-eye-reduction flash (which will flash continuously to prevent the glowing red eyes you may see in some portraits), always-on flash (which is great for fill-flash), no flash, and ∞ (which will disable flash and force the camera to focus on infinity). As you cycle through the flash modes, the LCD shows your settings next to the large always-on film frame counter display.

The flash itself uses variable power, which helps avoid massive over-exposures when taking photos up close.

There’s also a dedicated 10-second timer button. I never found a use for it but triggered accidentally on some occasions. Whenever I noticed that my camera begins a countdown, I quickly turned the power off to avoid wasting film.

Lastly, once you get to the end of your roll, the camera will wind it back into the cassette. Unfortunately, it will not put the lens away, nor will it react to the power/lens toggle button until the film is fully rewound. If you turn your camera off as it winds the film back, it will put the lens away at the end of the rewind cycle.

35mm Carl Zeiss Tessar 𝒇3.5 T* lens image quality.

Carl Zeiss brand enjoys a fantastic reputation when it comes to optics — even today. I would not be surprised that this and other cameras cost a premium just for bearing the name. And in most cases, it’s well worth the price.

Yashica T5’s lens renders excellent sharpness and contrast on photos at close and mid distances. It maintains that sharpness across the frame without vignetting and no noticeable aberrations on any of the films I’ve tried the camera with. It also appears to prevent flaring well, as I haven’t noticed much of it in any of my frames.

The aperture blades on Yashica T5 form a triangle, which doesn’t seem to diminish the quality of out-of-focus areas on this lens. Whenever the camera opens the aperture to its widest, it renders smooth and even bokeh that doesn’t swirl and resembles that of the Rollei 35 S, a camera that features a Zeiss Sonnar design.

Yashica T5 has a slight delay before exposure. This is very common on vintage autofocus cameras (although outstanding examples — like Minolta TC-1 — do not have this problem). Still, the autofocus on Yashica T5 is excellent. Of all the rolls I shot with this camera, there was just one frame with a missed focus. This is a better success rate than that of almost any autofocus camera I’ve ever owned.

Yashica T4 vs. Yashica T5/T4 Super.

Yashica T4 (a.k.a. Kyocera Slim T) is nearly identical to Yashica T5/T4 Super in looks and specs. The T4 is slightly cheaper, yet it features the same Carl Zeiss Tessar T* 𝒇3.5 35mm lens, shutter, and autofocus system.

T4 does not have the Super Scope, it is not weather-sealed, and it has a smaller and more awkward power button. However, it’s a bit more compact and is lighter than the T5.

I found T4 less “special” and less versatile than T5 due to its lack of the Super Scope and weatherproofing. Also, since it has no seals, its motor is somewhat louder than that of the T5.

There are cheaper point-and-shoot cameras that can give you similar results as T4 (i.e., Mju I, Espio Mini, Big Mini BM-302), but none match the unique feature package of Yashica T5. Or, you can go back in time for a much better deal with Yashica T2 — it uses the same lens though with a jankier design and a less precise autofocus.

How much does Yashica T5 cost, and where to find one.

As of this writing, working Yashica T5/T4 Super/Kyocera T-Proof cameras sell for around $400-600, depending on the condition.

I suggest you seek copies with confirmed working film transport as it’s the most common issue with this camera. Small scratches and paint scuffs don’t affect this camera’s performance, but cracks in plastic will render its weatherproofing inactive. The best way to guarantee a safe shopping experience is to buy from reputable sellers with good ratings. You can learn more about shopping for vintage cameras here.

❤ By the way: Please consider making your Yashica T5/T4 Super/Kyocera T-Proof camera purchase using this link  so that this website may get a small percentage of that sale — at no extra charge for you — thanks!