Some issues, such as discrepancies in shutter speeds , may initially appear as cause for concern. After all, such issues can cause overexposure . Unfortunately, servicing shutters is typically a complex job that requires specific tools and knowledge that isn’t very widespread. Worse yet, jobs that aren’t done properly may appear OK at first only to degrade quickly with use. Before you send your camera for repair due to slow shutter speeds, consider whether it can be remedied by exercising the gears (see below ) and the seriousness of the discrepancies. Most negative films can handle a stop of over-exposure (thus, your shutter speed can be twice slower than it needs to be); plus, shutter speeds below 1/30 are rarely used in practice.
Of course, none of the above is a hard rule. Some cameras and issues are fairly easy to fix. Others may not be easy but are worth the investment if the item is valuable and you’re looking for top-notch performance. Expensive mechanical pieces may be in the sweet spot of having enough skilled experts, tools, and value. You may even like to modify your camera in a variety of ways — but there are risks and expenses of which I think you should be aware of before dropping off your baby at the post office.
None of the above is meant to disperse your trust in skilled services. Still, before doing anything rash, you may like to ask yourself if you’d be happier keeping your camera close and looking past slight imperfections on a tool that’s as old as your grandpa.
Diagnosing the slow shutter speeds. One of the most common issues on mechanical vintage film cameras that may need attention is slow or sticky shutter speeds. Due to how spring tensions work, fast shutter speeds (1/60s+) are typically not affected, but as you go down to slower speeds, they may get uncharacteristically slow and even sticking (i.e., not completing the cycle).
If you’ve shot any film camera before, you may recognize the issue by ear, but there are also various tools to help you measure shutter speeds. Some are complex and highly specialized but there are also simple solutions, like this app that records the sound and lets you place markers on the waveform:
Shutter-Speed on iOS and Android .
As I’ve mentioned above, slight shutter speed inconsistencies may not matter for your photography. However, if the shutter takes twice the time or longer to complete the cycle, it will need some attention.
Regularly shooting your film camera, particularly in sunny weather can help keep it working flawlessly.
Exercising the gears. Mechanical gear can sometimes benefit from exercise. The lubricants that promote their mobility inevitably collect debris over the years outside the factory cleanrooms and their chemical composition can change. While the worst-case scenario will require invasive oil replacements, a simple repeated mechanical exercise can resolve issues like slow shutter speeds in many cases.
✪ Note 1: If your camera has a leaf shutter, examine the shutter blades (typically seen through the front element) first to see if there’s oil residue on them. If that’s the case, it’s better to open up the lens and clean the shutter blades first as that residue can aerosolize and cause fogging on the lens.
✪ Note 2: If you notice grinding/squeaking sounds, uneven resistance from the advance lever or other worrying signs, your shutter or other parts of your camera may need service and exercising it may, in fact, make things worse.
When the gears become mobile after years of inactivity, the lubricants warm and become less viscous. As part of that process, some debris can be squeezed outward from the tight spaces between the teeth and connection joints, and the sediment mixes in with the oil to make it a homogenous mixture that flows more easily.
The proper way to exercise the shutter gears is to start with fast speeds that work as they should. Advance and click a few times, then move to the slower gear and try a few times until the speed sounds right. Then keep decreasing the shutter speed settings as you cycle the film advance and the shutter button.
It may take a few cycles to improve your slow shutter speeds. Sometimes, exercising the gears won’t help, in which case you’ll need to consider servicing your shutter or avoiding slow shutter speeds (also, see note above). This method is also more effective on leaf shutters — focal plane shutters may not be as easy to bring back into shape.
Be careful of shutters that become blocked if the previous cycle isn’t complete. If you find that your shutter ceased, give it time and consider servicing if that does not help. Do not apply force greater than that you would to turn a door handle.
Sun exposure and humidity. Mechanical systems need exercise, just like our bodies. But there’s another similarity between us and our tools: sun exposure. To stay healthy, both people and cameras can benefit from a little sunshine .
While you should absolutely not keep your precious pieces hanging in the sun all day, sun rays can help you keep your glass elements free of mould. These organisms like to hang out on glass surfaces and feed on microscopic debris, which, over the years, can cause them to grow into visible webs that affect the contrast of your images and the usefulness of your viewfinder. Limited sun exposure irradiates glass surfaces and kills mould.
The irradiation effect is limited. Sun exposure won’t clean up your lens, but it may slow or stop the development of the growth. Essentially, you want to keep your camera in use. Take it outside often and it will serve you better.
In addition to sun radiation, humidity control can positively affect the longevity of your camera’s lens elements. Ideally, you want to have less water in the air to prevent mould formation. Humidity control systems and dry cabinets are made for the job, but keeping your cameras in the attic rather than the basement can also be helpful (provided there isn’t much dust).
A few basic tools for camera repair, including the self-healing mat, puffer, micro screwdrivers, and a lens spanner.
Exercise and climate control are some of the most effective ways to keep film cameras in excellent shape. But sometimes, intervention is necessary.
In this guide, I’m focusing on basic/light repairs that you can do at home without formal education on the topic. You still need decent finger dexterity, patience, and possibly some experience repairing other things around the house. But most of all, you’ll need the right tools.
✪ Note: I’m also assuming that you are aware of the risks that come with fixing complex mechanisms at home (the worst being breaking your property beyond repair or hurting yourself).
The below list of tools is not exhaustive. Instead, it’s focused on the relatively simple jobs. I’m segregating it into three sections: basics, intermediate, and involved. Note that I’m not using “advanced” here because none of the repairs I’m discussing in this guide are beyond a home technician’s abilities. (I am adding a few resources near the end for continuing your education toward complex repairs if you’re inclined to do so ).
Tools for basic repairs and maintenance:
Micro screwdrivers — micro screwdrivers are an essential tool for opening up your camera and making adjustments. I used to think that the best ones would be made of hard metal, but the reality is that you don’t want a screwdriver that’s so hard it strips your screws. You can invest in better brands but average tools can still go a long way.
Puffer a.k.a. blower — for getting the dust off your lens and other parts of your camera. This is the most gentle way of taking care of your camera as it doesn’t involve any touching of the glass or components.
Microfiber cloth — sometimes, you need to apply a little mechanical motion to get dust and light grime off your camera. Microfiber cloths are the way to do this.
Lens cleaning solution — a special liquid for taking care of the glass elements. You can use it to wipe your lens very gently with a microfiber cloth and cotton swabs. But you don’t need to do this often; a little dust or grime will not affect your images at all.
Cotton swabs — cotton swabs will help you reach crevices a cloth won’t. This is an essential tool for cleaning your camera.
Zeiss lens wipes — an excellent material for cleaning lenses. These wipes can do a better job than the lens cleaning solution and microfiber cloth but aren’t applicable to the rest of your camera.
Paper towels — a general material you may want to use to clean up your area. Do not use paper towels on your lens elements!
Tools for intermediate repairs:
Small pliers — some jobs will need a little pressure or a gentle squeeze.
Tweezers — this is an essential tool for handling small screws, plastic pieces, adhesive foam, and other small parts.
Self-healing mat — a necessity for handling metal tools, cutting things, working with glue, and other jobs that can damage your table. Self-healing mats also come with measuring marks that you can use to make precision cuts.
Point lubricant — small drops of synthetic oil can be essential on certain parts of the camera or lens. But you should be careful not to over-apply or use this lubricant in complex timing mechanisms unless they specifically call for it.
Light and overhead phone mount for video recording — you will certainly need a well-lit space. Video recording is optional, but it’s not for making content; rather, the videos would be useful for reviewing your disassembly process. It’s very easy to forget how things fit together, particularly with film cameras, which can have hundreds of tiny, complex parts.
X-Acto knife — to cut things like foam. You probably already have one at home. Note, though, that a kitchen knife will not do.
Ruler — you’ll need a ruler for cutting things like like adhesive foam for fixing light leaks.
Adhesive foam — this stuff is essential for fixing light leaks. Sometimes you may find a pre-cut kit for your camera model online, which can be very useful. But you can also measure and cut from a standard piece to fit on any film camera.
99% alcohol — this is essential for removing old, degraded light seals and cleaning certain parts of the camera. Do not use it on leather or leatherettes, and avoid using it on lenses.
Latex gloves — things can get grimy, especially when you’re cleaning up something really old and nasty. Gloves can also help protect your skin from harmful chemicals like acetone.
Donnor film roll — sometimes you’ll need to test your camera’s film transport functionality. Any roll of film will do.
I use my Super Lube synthetic dropper for precision lubrication of individual contact points. Tweezers help me maneuver small parts like the tiny screws. Interchangeable micro screwdriver heads are another necessity.
Tools for more involved repairs:
Lens spanner — this is the only way to open lens casings. Never use anything else as sticking a screwdriver into a spanner grove can strip it and severely damage your lens.
Rubber lens tools — certain lenses have plastic or metal rings that hold glass in place and don’t have any spanner groves. They can only be opened with rubber friction tools.
Soldering iron and flux — many film cameras have wires and electronic components that will need to be attached and detached. You should be careful with this tool and refer to guides on how to use one if it’s your first time. If not used properly, you can burn yourself, risk fire, or just do a very poor job of attaching elements.
Electric tape and liquid tape — you need to cover up certain soldering joints and sometimes other parts of the camera with this stuff.
Lens grease and advanced lubricants — there’s a huge variety of lubricants out there that are specific to particular mechanical operations. HELIMAX-XP is generally recommended for helicoid lens elements. I use Super Lube dropper for the rest of my jobs. But there are more choices out there, this guide has more on that.
Double-sided tape and various glues — I like double-sided tape for simple, flat leatherette mounting, like that on the Polaroid SX-70 cameras. The tape is fairly secure and easy to remove if you need to get back in there. But there are also more permanent solutions, some of which are a must for more complex leather trims.
Black nail polish — I use black nail polish drops to fix certain screws in place, like the ones that control rangefinder adjustments in Vitessa cameras. They prevent the screws from drifting over the years and are easy to dissolve with nail polish remover.
Acetone/nail polish remover — acetone is a common solvent for paint, glues, and the material that holds certain screws in place.
Leather oil (coconut oil is OK) — a small amount can be rubbed onto the leather parts of your camera to prevent cracking and help retain good colour.
Cleaning and polishing. I typically use a lens cleaning solution with cotton swabs to clean up grime from the camera. It’s best not to use any harsh solvents and alcohol should not be applied to leatherette as it could dry it.
If you’re planning to clean your lens elements, consider not to at first. There are tests and experiments performed online that show that even a serious crack or significant damage to the front element may have minimal or no effect on the quality of the image. If you wear glasses, you may notice that a small piece of debris or even fingerprints won’t be obvious until you take off your glasses and examine them closely — the same principle applies to camera lenses.
Cotton swabs and alcohol solution can help clean up expired light seals while a gentle application of lens cleaning solution with a microfibre cloth can take care of the rest of the camera exterior.
The reason it’s not advisable to clean your camera lens excessively is because mechanical friction causes irreversible damage. Thus, you should do it sparingly. Lens coatings can be sensitive to being rubbed and they are even more sensitive in certain mirror and beam splitter elements inside the rangefinder systems. Focusing screens could also be easily damaged, even with the lightest of touches.
If you find that your lens needs cleaning after all (there are large pieces of grime, significant smudges, etc.), consider using a puffer at first. This is the least invasive method. If that doesn’t work, you can try applying a small amount of lens cleaning solution to a microfiber cloth (not the glass itself) and gently wipe the grime. You can finish the job with a very light cotton swab or a Zeiss wipe.
Avoid using anything other than a puffer or very light touch with a cotton swab over your camera bellows. They can be very sensitive to being rubbed and chemicals and even water may damage certain bellows.
If your camera has battery acid damage , you can start by removing it with alcohol. Battery acid is easily solvable, but if you find it tough, you can try a vinegar solution. If you can get inside the compartment without damaging it, you may want to polish the rusted elements with a small-grit sandpaper. You should wear gloves while cleaning battery acid.
Beyond the Aperture expands on the above cleaning tips further.
The two screws for rangefinder adjustments on FED 5B are underneath the name plate.
Rangefinder adjustments. Rangefinders are devices that help photographers quickly and accurately estimate the distance to their subjects by overlaying ghost images. However, these devices do not directly represent the focus that the lens sets on the film plane. Instead, they are mechanically coupled to the lens mechanism, which can, over time, drift from the alignment.
Rangefinder drift happens to all cameras, even the most expensive ones. It’s the result of physical motion. Well-designed cameras will make rangefinder adjustments easily accessible; there are some principles by which all rangefinders can be adjusted.
In this section, I’ll explain the basics of rangefinder adjustment. But to do the job on your camera, you may need to look up a specific manual or a video guide.
The most basic type of rangefinder adjustment is infinity focus alignment . If your camera’s infinity focus does not align your ghost images, it’s time to re-adjust your rangefinder. This job will require intermediate-level tools (see above
There are typically two screws on all rangefinders that will help you align ghost images vertically and then horizontally. Sometimes it could be just a single screw. A guide specific to your camera will help you find those screws and sometimes be good enough to tell you which way to turn them. The job involves making small, incremental adjustments and checking your infinity focus after each one. You can check your focus by directing your camera at an object that’s 200m or 600’ away or further.
Getting to those screws usually requires some disassembly. You should use only the screwdrivers that fit perfectly into your screws and never apply too much force. If you find yourself using more energy than you would to turn a door knob — stop. At this point, you may try looking up guides for loosening screws, but you should also consider that they may be permanently fused. This doesn’t happen very often, but it’s not out of the question.
Getting to and turning one or two screws is all you’ll need to do for most rangefinders. However, some rangefinders will need more work. There are two more dimensions they could fall out of alignment: close focus and tilt.
Voigtländer Vitessa rangefinders are notoriously difficult to adjust because they may require adjustment of all of the above and you can not immediately check your work. Instead, you have to do partial assembly after each adjustment. I wrote a dedicated guide specifically on this topic.
Close-focus rangefinder adjustment is much more complicated than infinity-focus alignment. Traditionally, this required an autocollimator; I wrote this guide
Close-focus adjustments will need to be in sync with infinity-focus adjustments. Thus, you may find yourself going back and forth between these jobs. It’s usually OK to skip this job as it’s only relevant for precise focusing at closest distances and wide apertures.
Installing the new light seals on the film door.
Light seal and return mirror padding replacements. Some of the oldest vintage film cameras used various tricks to ensure no unwanted light got inside. Welta Penti 0 had deep, tight groves that accepted metal film covers. Voigtländer Vitessa cameras, despite their troublesome rangefinder mechanism, used cotton string that could last as long as the rest of the camera. However, most cameras from the 1960s onward use plastic foam, which, unfortunately, degrades over time.
Once your light seals begin to crumble, light leaks can form. They can be charming or exactly what you want for certain projects. But in most cases, they are distracting or unwanted. I wrote this guide on how to replace light seals intermediate-level tools (see above
In addition to light seal replacements, you may need to replace a small piece of foam that dampens the return mirror slap on your SLR. The above guide also discusses this.
Unfortunately, not all light leaks can be fixed with new light seals. One of my recent repairs required a lot of troubleshooting due to a missing screw in the Olympus PEN FV that opened up a hole where the light leaked in. I describe the issue and the job to fix it here .
Long-term storage. If you’re planning to keep your camera inactive for a few months or years, consider the tips already mentioned at the top of this guide: store it in a dry place, maybe the attic instead of the basement. High humidity can cause serious issues for your equipment , particularly when it comes to mould, so you may want to control it even further — either with a dehumidifier or with a dry cabinet .
You may also want to ensure there is no smoke, fumes, or debris around your camera. Protecting your camera from dust is also important: it typically settles from the top down, so a plain box should be enough.
You may also want to take your camera out of storage once in a while and exercise the gears — even if you aren’t shooting film.
I don’t think there’s a significant difference in whether the shutter is cocked on your camera. The timing springs are always at a tension, adding a little more is unlikely to lead to any metal fatigue.
Definitely remove the batteries from your camera. They could leak and damage it from the inside.
Sticky or stiff lens rings. This job will require involved-level tools (see above
Exercising lens rings may not help add mobility. They may feel stiff or sticky, no matter how much you use them, in which case, you may need to replace the grease.
One of the most recommended helicoid lens greases is HELIMAX-XP . But before you can apply that, you’ll need to disassemble your lens. To do that, you’ll need to prepare your space and get your lens spanner, rubber tools, self-healing pad, and micro screwdrivers ready. You may also want to mount your phone or camera to record a video of your progress so that you can figure out how to put the lens back together after the job.
Lens disassembly on Vitessa A. This lens does not have helicoid focusing system (it uses bellows) but its leaf shutter components are very delicate.
It’s important to be very careful about scratching the glass. You may also want to wear clean gloves to ensure you don’t leave fingerprints on the lens elements as that will only add work later on. Another thing to do is prepare a few microfibre cloths for placing the glass on top of. Some elements have to fall out of the barrel — you can use the cloth to catch them.
This job can be significantly more involved than anything described above. If this is your first time, watch a few videos of someone else doing it. If there’s none for your particular lens, any video will do give you an idea of what it takes. Your first lens should be something you’d be OK with damaging, as that can happen often for such jobs without experience. And don’t forget the early advice in this guide: sometimes the repairs aren’t worth the effort or the risk .
Here’s an important part: before you pull out the helicoid focusing barrel, make sure to mark both the lens and the host barrel with a pencil just before they separate. This mark will help you remember how to screw them back together. There are a few screw-in entrance options for helicoid systems, if you do it the wrong way, your focus will be off.
Oil on aperture blades, shutter blades, and lens elements. This job will require involved-level tools (see above
Sometimes, leaf shutters and aperture blades accumulate oil residues, which can cause them to stick together and prevent proper operation. If exercising does not help, you’ll have to disassemble your lens and clean these components with alcohol.
Getting to the aperture or leaf shutter blades in a lens can be a big job. You should be ready to spend a day or more doing this. As mentioned above, start with something that isn’t worth much.
Follow the above advice on lens disassembly, but take additional care when you get close to exposing the aperture and shutter blades . These components are often not fixed; rather, they rest on tiny pegs, held together by the surrounding components. It’s very easy to have them fly off and it can be very difficult to put them back together. This job requires a lot of patience.
You may not need to expose your aperture or leaf shutter blades completely to clean them — as long as you can reach them with the cotton swab, you may be OK.
Before you put your lens back together, make sure that the blades are completely dry. Any trapped moisture will collect on the glass elements, causing temporary or permanent fogging, which can greatly affect the quality of your photos. Use the air puffer to speed up the drying process.
Any glass surface can get infected with fungus — not just the lens. Here, you can see it inside the Canon AE-1 camera viewfinder.
Lens fungus, fogging, and other lens damage. This job will require involved-level tools (see above
Some guides suggest using vinegar to clean your lens elements from fungus. Do not use vinegar to clean your lens elements! Vinegar can dissolve your lens. I know this because it happened to me before. Lens fungus should be cleaned with warm water and soap.
Note that fungus can eat away at the lens coating; thus killing fungus and cleaning it off will not necessarily produce a clear lens.
Of course, some lens disassembly will be necessary to get to infected elements. As you work your way towards the affected glass, keep in mind that there may be some that are inaccessible for a variety of reasons. Small amounts of fungus should not affect the quality of your image; it’s better to leave those inaccessible elements alone than damage them.
Once you’ve cleaned your elements, give them a gentle wipe with lens cleaning solution and a microfibre cloth and dry completely. There should be no moisture on them when you assemble them back.
Fogging is another issue often caused by aerosolized oils and materials inside the camera. Like fungus, most kinds of fogging can be cleaned with soapy water.
Fungus and fogging may appear on other glass elements, like the finder. You may not need a lens spanner to get to those surfaces, but you still should use caution and consider filming your progress.
However, some types of lens damage can not be fixed. This includes balsam separation, which is the degradation of the cement that holds certain element groups together. It can appear as circular residue on the glass.
Another issue is elements bumped out of alighnment. While some highly qualified repair persons may be able to do something about it, it may be impossible to fix at home. This is a fairly rare issue but it can not be diagnosed without running some film through the camera. Misaligned lens elements can make certain parts of your image appear out of focus, which can not be explained by normal background separation or scanning issues.
Component replacements. Sometimes, you may have spare parts, or you may even like to shop for broken cameras specifically to find replacements. You may also try 3D printing some components. However, you should be mindful that even the slightest differences in models can render certain parts incompatible. Some camera makers don’t even change their model name but the parts may still not fit.
Taking two cameras apart, even if you don’t intend to put one of them back together, is almost twice the work. But another thing to consider is the authenticity of your camera. While it may not make a difference in your personal use, if you plan to sell a camera and replace a key component, especially if it bears a serial number or the place of origin, you may be misleading your customer.
Professional repair guides and further education. This guide is a primer for your camera care and repair jobs. But it doesn’t have all the answers; understandably, you may also want to see a few videos of repairs being done. Or you may want to go beyond this guide and dive into the world of advanced camera repairs. Here’s my advice on how to proceed:
When looking up videos of the repair jobs for reference, assume a critical role. I’m not saying that you should post negative comments, obviously — simply observe to see how good of a job is being done. Would you be happy if your camera was treated that way? Are they applying random lubrications indiscriminately, smashing things, or is there a reason for the tools and materials in their approach? Are they using harmful chemicals on parts of camera that they don’t seem to belong? How are their results looking after the assembly and have they done this more than once?
If you enjoy camera repair or you’ve got plenty of experience making simple repairs and would like to fix something that isn’t documented online, you may like to invest some time researching professional repair guides. Many film cameras had books printed by the manufacturer that outlined the inner workings of shutter mechanisms and other complex parts. Some of them could be free, others are paid. By this point, you may need to invest in better tools as well.
A good starting point for you may be this camera repair course . If you’re willing to travel to Finland for a while, Camera Rescue teaches a course and even offers job placements.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any questions!
