The Vintage Film Camera Buying Guide

How to Find the Best Deal on a Vintage Film Camera

14 min read by Dmitri.
Published on February 13, 2024. Updated on August 2, 2024.

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Vintage film cameras can be your best bet when it comes to features and build quality per dollar spent. But finding one in good working condition for a fair price can be hard.

This guide covers techniques I’ve learned over the twenty years as a shopper and a seller on eBay. I traded well over 100 film cameras there, on Etsy, with friends, and at the local markets.

I got to shoot some incredible historical pieces, thanks to eBay and others. But not all purchases worked out — I’ve been lied to and lost money in various ways. I’ll share the lessons learned on avoiding getting burned by shady sellers, unfair prices, broken cameras, and surprise fees. There are also ways to make money and contribute to the cyclical economy, which I’ll cover briefly below.

In this guide, you’ll find tips for buying film cameras on eBay, Etsy, individual shops and local marketplaces. Whether you’re shopping online or seeing the camera in person, it has you covered.

In this guide: Where to shop for film cameras. Decide what you want to buy first. Research the price. Consider the service. Examine the camera/listing. Questions to ask. Wait or buy now? eBay auctions. Shipping. Taxes. Returns & refunds. Fixing broken cameras. Selling vintage film cameras. Support this blog & get premium features with GOLD memberships!

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Where to shop for film cameras.

eBay. This is by far the most popular vintage film camera source in the world. You may find almost any film camera you can think of in any condition at prices often lower than anywhere else.

Etsy. Etsy is similar to eBay. It features shops run by individuals and small businesses that sell vintage and handmade goods. Etsy offsets the carbon emissions from all shipping trips. This marketplace also encourages its sellers to offer free delivery and superior customer service. Analog.Cafe readers may recognize Film Base — a five-star Etsy shop where I sell vintage film cameras, books, and more.

Local shops (online and offline). Depending on where you live, you may save on shipping and see the item you’re about to buy in person. Some shoppers choose to support their local businesses even if it costs a little extra.

International shops and brands. Japan Camera Hunter made his name by selling rare and mint condition pieces that are hard to come by anywhere outside of Japan. You may know of Camera Rescue, a Finnish brand that professionally refurbishes and sells vintage photo equipment. There’s also KEH and many others. All of these shops specialize in selling used film cameras and are known internationally for their service.

Local marketplaces, thrift shops, and yard sales. Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, physical vintage markets, and charity shops are good to get a deal while avoiding paying extra fees. They may not have everything you want in the condition you prefer, and sometimes you’ll need to travel to reach one. But you may get lucky and find something for a fraction of the price sold elsewhere.

Friends and acquaintances on social media. If you know and trust a member of a photographic community, you may like to buy their gear before they list it on eBay or elsewhere.

Decide what you want to buy first.

Save money and time by deciding what you want before you start shopping. Here are some questions to ask yourself while looking for the right camera:

What’s the budget? Film cameras can cost anywhere from $5 to $50,000. Most cameras reviewed on this blog range between $50 to $1,000.

What format? 35mm film is the most popular format. It’s the easiest one to scan and find film in. But there’s also instant film, 110 film, medium format, large format, and other odd and custom formats.

What aspect ratio? The most common is 3:2, the same as on digital cameras. But there are also panoramic film cameras and a variety of choices for medium and instant film formats.

How compact do you want your camera? The smallest full-frame camera uses film (unsurpassed by digital cameras even today). Film cameras can be tiny or huge, depending on the format, lenses, and body design.

What type of framing/focusing system? Film cameras can be SLRs, TLRs, rangefinders, point-and-shoot (autofocus), or viewfinder (no focusing aid).

How much automation do you want with your camera? Film cameras began adapting selenium light meters to help measure light around the 1940s, but they aren’t particularly accurate; many of them no longer work. In the 1960s and 1970s, battery-powered meters were introduced that worked much better, with the first SLR to completely automate metering light being the Canon A-1. Light meters and autofocus continued to improve through the 1980s and 1990s, but there’s still value in a dependable mechanical camera (besides, you can measure light using just your sight).

How important is build quality to you? Film cameras can be cheap plastic boxes, or they could be incredible pieces of engineering made with premium materials. The build quality will affect the price — but not always. For example, Voightländer Vitessa A isn’t particularly expensive, yet it feels like a jeweller’s piece in hand.

Ergonomics. Modern cameras typically fit better in hand. Some cameras have a larger viewfinder that’s easier to use with glasses on. There’s also a range of foldable film cameras of all types and formats that can work great for travel.

There are tons of film camera reviews on this blog. Perhaps there’s one that will tick all your boxes. Check them out.

Research the price.

Once you know which camera to get, you should find out how much it should cost. If it’s a popular camera, you can search for it on eBay to see what it goes for. Only consider listings by reputable sellers and disregard listings that charge much more or much less than the average; try not to include listings that you think won’t sell (i.e., 0 bids close to the end of an auction).

Include working/condition status and appearance in your research. For example, if you’re wondering if a cared-for, mint-condition camera your friend is selling is worth the price, compare it against listings that show similar qualities.

Include fees when comparing prices. For example, it’s usually cheaper to ship something locally. You’ll find a full list of possible fees to check against below.

You may also see how much your item costs at other places (local shops, Etsy, etc.)

Consider the service.

Refunds, warranty, as well as sellers’ expertise, responsiveness, ability to describe cameras accurately, and overall track record with the customers are part of the price. Individuals and brands that invest time into their camera-selling businesses will often create to a better shopping experience.

Paying extra for service can save you time and money. Fast shipping, quick full refunds, and accurate descriptions can help you avoid repeat unsuccessful purchases.

Note that good service doesn’t always mean higher prices. Seller’s reviews and your interactions with them will reveal more about the experience you’re about to have.

Examine the camera/listing.

All vintage film cameras are used or stored for extensive periods of time, which means that they often have scuffs and issues. Some may look damaged but work perfectly; others may look brand-new but never fire a shot.

Read the description, always. Most sellers disclose any issues with their cameras in descriptions. They may also promise that the item is in full working condition or that it was film-tested. Marketplaces such as eBay bind sellers to be truthful and will often refund you if what you got does not match the description.

You should also be able to ask the seller any questions about the camera before buying. “Is it fully functional?” is a good one. Better yet, you can research common issues with your camera and ask them if they’ve checked the camera for those. I have a few more example questions you can ask below.

Some sellers may not be able to answer all your questions or provide all the photos. There are stores that ship out of off-site warehouses and sellers inexperienced in film photography on eBay, Etsy, and local marketplaces. It’s up to you to take the risk, but you’ll need to consider what will happen if you aren’t happy with your purchase. A reputable seller with a good refund policy may be all you need. But I don’t advise new camera shoppers to spend money on anything blindly.

Ideally, an online listing will have photos of a camera from six angles (top, bottom, left, right, front, back) with close-ups of the lens. Dents and cracks are usually not good signs, so are hazy lenses. Fungus may grow on some optical elements (it looks like spider webs); you’ll notice it if you shine a strong light into the lens. You don’t want fungus as it can decrease the contrast of your images. However, scuffs, small amounts of dust in the lens, and a few cosmetic issues are usually not a problem while shooting. Remember, many of the cameras on sale are older than you and I.

You may also find “mint-condition” cameras on sale. This typically means that you’ll be getting something that looks like new. (Note that “mint” refers to appearance only; thus, you should still ask the seller if the camera is in working condition.) Some “mint” cameras come in the original box; that box may be in a worse or better condition than the camera.

Though some define “mint” as spotless, sellers often use that word to highlight various degrees of better-than-average appearance. This is why you may find listings like “mint+++” or “mint-minus.” Sellers often add charts to their listings that disambiguate their various condition grades. Experienced sellers will be able to describe their cameras better and more accurately.

If your camera’s appearance is important to you, you can specifically search for “mint” items, but you should rely on product photos and sellers’ descriptions to judge the condition. If something isn’t evident, try asking the seller directly.

Listings that have “READ” in the title typically mean that the seller will describe faults with the camera in the description.

Questions to ask.

If the seller has a good rating and lists their cameras as working, I typically trust their word, description, and images. eBay provides a guarantee on all items’ descriptions; thus, if what you bought isn’t working as described, you’ll get your money back regardless of the seller’s policies.

That said, you may want to ask a few questions about a listing you aren’t so sure about:

Is the item working? Have you tested it? If it’s tested, was it tested with film? If there’s a part of a camera you’d like to see not pictured, consider asking the seller to provide that photo. Ask about secondary functionalities, like flash/flash indicators, display, and film transport (some cameras may have overlapping frames due to age). You may also like to ask if the camera is from a smoking home — that smell is very hard to get rid of.

Wait or buy now?

New film cameras are listed online every day. Many of those listings will claim to be “rare,” which is easy to check by doing a search on eBay. If you see a few dozen listings of that same camera, it’s not rare.

You may like to use the “Save Search” feature on eBay to get notified when new matching cameras are added. This can be helpful if you’d like to see if something shows up that has a better price or is in a better condition.

Of course, there may be something that has the right price, looks good, and the seller has a good reputation. There’s no reason to delay a purchase in that case. While most film cameras aren’t rare, their prices and conditions usually vary, and thus, a combination that makes sense for you may, in fact, be rare.

eBay auctions.

eBay auctions may give you an opportunity to buy an item for less.

I typically decide on the maximum price I’m willing to pay for an item in advance and bid about ten seconds before the auction closes (your ideal bidding time will depend on your internet connection as well as how fast you can click the buttons). Sometimes, this means I get outbid by someone else; I’m never happy when that happens, but the alternative is going over the budget, which is not a good way to shop.

eBay lets you set a maximum price, which is the highest amount you’re willing to pay for an item. If your competitor sets their max lower than yours, you’ll get away with paying only a dollar more than their max. For example, if I bid $100 and you bid $150, I’ll lose and you’ll get your camera for $101.

However, buyers can increase their maximum price anytime during the auction and you’ll always know when that happens.

If more than two buyers want an item, there’s a chance both will bid continuously and increase their maximum once they learn that the competitor increased theirs. However, this back-and-forth tends to have an effect on buyers, which causes us to increase our price thresholds beyond what we originally set and overpay. Reserving bids until the last possible second eliminates much of the psychological pressure and leaves competition fewer chances to adjust their budget in an attempt to outbid you.

Some eBay auctions start at $1. The same auctions may have a “reserve price,” which means that the item won’t sell until the bids surpass a secret dollar value set by the seller. Some auctions aren’t fun at all; those are the ones that start at a very high price, sometimes as much or even more than “Buy It Now” listings for the same camera.

Shipping.

Some items are only shipped to certain countries — you’ll need to check the description to make sure you can get your camera delivered. Asking the seller helps too.

My favourite shipping service is EMS. EMS stands for express mail service, which is usually the countries’ local government post (i.e., USPS, Canada Post, Royal Mail, etc.) Japan, the US, Canada, and most EU/UK countries have excellent postal services, which are fairly quick. Best of all, you’ll get charged less at the border when the duties are calculated.

You’ll also want your shipping to have tracking on anything that feels remotely expensive. Without tracking, you may not get a refund.

Taxes.

Taxes can be charged during the checkout and when your camera crosses a state or international border. Cheaper purchases may slip by for free but sellers are legally bound to state accurate prices on each international shipment.

Import dues vary based on items and countries. For film cameras, fees usually range between 15 and 20 percent of the total. In addition, UPS and FedEx will charge a processing fee (around $5-15), regardless of the due value. You should include these fees in your budget. Some countries won’t charge you for items that cost less than a certain amount (e.x., $800 in the USA).

Be careful about making your purchases in a currency other than the one used by your credit card. For example, if I’m buying from the USA using eBay, I have the option to pay in US or Canadian dollars. My bank has a better exchange rate than eBay, so I can choose to save a few bucks on this purchase — however, if I want to return the item later, I will end up losing money because I’ll get refunded in USD, meaning my money will get a percentage deducted when converted from CAD to USD and then to CAD back.

Returns & refunds.

Sometimes, the camera you get is not what you expected. An ideal refund can mend that problem, but getting all your money back isn’t always straightforward or guaranteed.

Ideally, the seller will send you a return shipping label that you’ll print and paste on the box where you packaged the camera. You should do your best to pack it well to avoid any damage in transit — out of respect to your seller and to avoid any fees they may charge you for undue damage (even if what you received is already broken).

Not all sellers will pay for your return shipping. eBay states that the seller is responsible for that, but they do not enforce this rule. Thus, you should demand a full refund before sending the item back. Etsy sellers will typically not pay for refund shipping; you’ll need to check each store’s policy, as you should with any other shop.

If you paid for the camera in the same currency your credit card uses (see above), you’ll avoid exchange fees. But most sellers won’t refund your import dues; to get that money back, you’ll need to fill out a government form (which won’t cover the processing fee).

Some sellers may offer you a partial refund. The idea is that you can use that money to repair your camera while both you and the seller can save on return shipping and time. This may be a convenient solution, but before you proceed, you should get an estimate for the repair (if that’s what you intend to spend your partial refund on).

Getting a refund from a local shop may be the easiest (as long as they allow it). However, returning a camera bought from a friend, an individual, or a physical market can be awkward or impossible — depending on the situation.

Fixing broken cameras.

If you got stuck with a broken camera or if you bought one on purpose, you may attempt to fix it. If you’ve got the right tools and some experience, most minor issues on mechanical cameras can be fixed at home. This includes cleaning up lens fungus (given that you can successfully disassemble and reassemble the lens) and fixing light leaks. As with everything else, you should research repair techniques.

If you succeed, you’ll instantly increase the value of your camera. If not, you may still be able to sell certain broken film cameras for parts at a decent price.

Selling vintage film cameras.

Vintage film cameras rarely lose value. Many are going up in price as there’s a limited supply of working copies in the environment of the increasing popularity of film photography.

If you aren’t using your film camera, you’re better off selling it. This ensures that someone else gets to try it. Doing so also diverts waste from landfills and prevents some carbon emissions.

You may try leaving your camera on consignment at your local shop (if they accept it) or selling it to a friend.

You may also sell it on eBay or Etsy. You’ll need to take good photos and write a decent description. You may have to charge a little less than the average if you haven’t done this previously or don’t have many positive reviews on your account.

Trading vintage film cameras can be hard work, but it can be fun to try with one or two copies once in a while.

Good luck and have fun!

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