“Homemade CineStill,” I like the sound of that! I’m considering trying something similar at home by pre-stripping the remjet as an experiment. I’ll post about it if I end up doing it. Cheers,
Thanks a lot! I’ll look into it. As for B&W, Delta 3200 would certainly be a safe bet, and it’s not that bad price-wise, but pushing HP5 (and Tri-X, thanks!) sounds like it’s worth trying too. As for colour, I might consider pushing Ultramax but I’ll keep in mind what you say. Unfortunately, all the native ISO800 films are too expensive for me to use more often than once in a blue moon, but as it happens, I’ve recently discovered here in Poland a “homemade Cinestill” making project, so I’ll probably try out their film as well.
Очень красивые фото, насыщенные цвета!!! В самом деле, наблюдая за буйством красок природы, можно получить неизгладимое удовольствие!!! Автор, браво!!!! Продолжайте в том же духе, радуйте людей своими красивыми фотографиями жизни и подлинных красок мира!!!
HP5+ is loved by many because of its ability to handle pushes. But Tri-X shouldn’t be ignored either, it’s a good film for that. This year, Tri-X dropped in price considerably, so it may be an economical option.
I haven’t pushed Ultramax previously. If you develop at a lab, it may be actually cheaper for you to get something like CineStill 800T and develop at box speed or push one stop (since labs often charge per stop pushed). I’ve had good luck pushing Pro Image 100 to 400 (which may be a similar experience to pushing Ultramax). However, it added a significant amount of contrast to the shadows, which is often the price you pay for pushing cheaper stocks. It could be worth a try anyway, depending on what you’re looking for.
If you’re planning to shoot dark scenes and are looking for clean results, you may be better off with B&W stocks as colour films may sometimes add colour noise to the shadows, which could be difficult to get rid of in post. Or you can just shoot Delta 3200 or T-Max P3200, which will be grainy but generally as good as you get at that ISO.
As it happens, I have one more question regarding pushing film! Do you have any recommendations on the cheapest options to shoot something in ISO800/1600? I assume the cheapest option would be to push some ISO400 emulsion, but I’m wondering what would yield the best results. When it comes to colour, Ultramax looks somewhat promising? In B&W, I suppose that HP5 seems like the safest bet.
Buyer’s remorse about the modern film cameras is beginning to cut through the hype.
I’d like to preface this by saying that there’s nothing wrong with being excited about new products. I take a positive approach to most products I review because I love film photography, I understand production constraints in 2024, and I do not expect perfection.
However, it must be difficult to be critical of a relatively expensive gadget that one gets and has limited time to play with. This is also fine. I am not happy about being attacked over not accepting that modern tools are somehow better in every way than their vintage counterparts (that happened, and it’s the Internet, so no surprise either).
But as time passes, the novelty wears and criticisms surface. Whether it’s Lok’s dissatisfaction with the build quality and design of the new Pentax 17 (youtube.com/watch?v=gwnlnE…) or @theinstantcameraguy’s complaints about Polaroid’s slow software fix cycle for critical bugs for I-2 (see: analog.cafe/comments/z0ow).
The truth about those tools is probably somewhere in the middle, and it will depend greatly on individual experience and expectations. But no matter what our collective opinion is about those new tools, it is nonetheless remarkable that there’s such a strong demand for film and film cameras in 2024. I sincerely hope that the manufacturers take note and remember that the user experience matters the most, whereas the hype always fades.
You can replace the internal battery at home if you are comfortable taking a small piece of the camera apart. It’s the port just underneath the zoom buttons. The battery is a common one. See “fixing blinking LCD” above. But I can’t promise it’ll fix the full functionality as it may be something else.
So this is what I learned. Both the internal battery (a button cell of 2025 type) and the external 2CR5 have to be fully charged for the camera to operate. In my case, the internal battery is out of juice and I need to get a technician to replace the internal battery as it takes some skill getting to that part inside the cam. What a ridiculous feature Yashica put in it…
Thank you. Yes, new 2CR5 battery was placed im both cams yet zoom buttons don’t work. I guess I will bit my lip and place a roll of film and test it myself if it then works. Will update the result here.
Hello, the zoom should work when the camera is on. But please ensure that you’ve got the battery installed. The display will function without the main battery installed, which may make an impression as if the camera has power (this is because a small internal battery powers the screen).
Can the camera controls like zoom be tested without placing film in it? I have a 3.0 ad 4.0 and while the camera turns on, the zoom buttons on both are unreactive. So I am doubting whether it requires film to be loaded.
Interesting review of the high end Canon camera. I thought I’d just mention here, that at one time, I owned two mint Canon Ftb’s, and a series of the last of the breech lock lenses that were multi-coated, which I preferred to the newer non-breech lock lenses. When I brought them in to Canon in Chicago for a CLA, a technician working there from Japan felt the need to come out and talk to me when I picked them up. He wanted me to know the FTb’s were considered some of the strongest and most solid cameras Canon ever produced, and I should hold on to them! Wish I had…
Update the firmware on your Polaroid I-2 to fix the autoexposure features.
Until recently, full auto, shutter priority, and aperture priority modes on Polaroid I-2 cameras have been lacking or useless, according to @theinstantcameraguy in his YouTube video: youtube.com/watch?v=j4z-T5…
But an easy firmware update that you can initiate through your Polaroid app is now available to fix it all. Once you pair your camera with your phone, you can view your firmware version in your app and update it if necessary. The version that fixes the above issues is v1.02.1.
In addition to the firmware announcement and explanation of what it fixes, @theinstantcameraguy notes that it took Polaroid an entire year to develop the firmware update meant to remedy critical features of an expensive camera. It is an unusually long software update cycle, even for a large company with the pains of corporate bureaucracy.
Based on his explanation of how the exposure issues were circumvented manually, it must’ve been a complex problem to solve. Nevertheless, Polaroid is also known for restoring one of the most complicated chemical products in the world. Hence, it’s hard to imagine this fix was beyond their ability to deliver in a shorter timeframe.
One last thing: the video is a little fumy, so if you’d rather not get upset, just update the firmware and enjoy the fix!
I think that if you’re using a lens that has an auto-only aperture control using a method I described, it’ll always have the aperture fully open. Because such lenses rely on the camera body to close down the aperture just before the picture is taken and in this case, it is disconnected from the body.
Les escribo desde Uruguay. Mi comentario se debe a que tengo una cámara Canon EOS Rebel G (similar a la mencionada en este articulo) y quiero utilizarla con un lente que no es de la marca Canon, al realizar lo que mencionan de girarlo 2 grados en sentido antihorario me figura que la apertura de diafragma es de 0.0, mi pregunta es, ¿Al sacar fotos así, la apertura pasa a ser la mínima del lente (en este caso 1.4)? En este lente no tengo la opción de regular la apertura desde el mismo.
Espero que se entienda, les envío un saludo enorme.
It came to my attention that a new film, or more precisely, a new film format, will launch on September 5th, 2024.
I’m marking this post as a spoiler, and I won’t attach any images here for the benefit of those who like surprises delivered by the manufacturers and folks whom they choose to spread the word about the products.
But since you’re here, you must’ve clicked the link, so here it goes:
It appears that Harman will be releasing their Phoenix 200 film in 120 format very shortly.
This is fantastic news for those who enjoy this emulsion but would rather see tighter grain in their images. This includes me, as I enjoyed the vividness of the colours of this new film but wished for more resolution.
In my Harman Phoenix 200 film review (analog.cafe/r/harman-phoen…), I even made a composite image from seven vertical panoramas to see how it would look in a larger format. You can find that and all the technical info about this film (which applies to all formats) in the above link.
This news was accidentally leaked by Harman when they published a blog post about the medium-format release early. The company has since taken it down, but you can see the cached version here: webcache.googleusercontent….
The listed price on the above post is £10.99 or ~$14.50.
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