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  • Just watched grainydays (Jason) push Portra 800 +1 to EI 1600. He didn’t seem to like his results, but I think this film is still worth a push if needed. If you do that, I advise using better scanning techniques and beware of the sharp falloff in the shadows.

    Here’s his video: youtube.com/watch?v=w2iR7Y…

    I happened to have recently shot mine pushed +2 stops to EI 3200: analog.cafe/r/kodak-portra…. Coincidentally, I also used XPan with it (reviewed here: analog.cafe/r/hasselblad-x…), which indeed needed those extra stops of light sensitivity in the dusky Vancouver winter.

    Whereas some shots didn’t work out as well as I hoped they would, I had no trouble getting rid of the colour casts and haven’t found the grain that bad in my scans.

    To get my results to look as they do now (no colour casts in the shadows, accurate overall colours), I inverted the negatives by hand and added a touch of colour balance adjustment in Photoshop. This is what I do with most of my colour film. And this is the guide I wrote on how to do this, should you like to push your Portra 800 and get results that do not suck: analog.cafe/r/how-to-scan-….

    #filmdev #filmscan #video


  • Speaking of shadows on pushed Portra 800:

    Even though the process tends to decrease the film’s exposure latitude (less detail) in the darkest corners of the image, the colours can still be made to look good. In this image, it’s pitch-black on either side of my long dog, Noodle. Yet there are no casts, and the colour balance looks natural; as you’d expect, places where the eye can’t see are black, and so they are too in this image.

    This is in contrast to the blue and purple hues I saw in Jason’s video, which may be the result of the work done automatically by Negative Lab Pro. (This app usually does an excellent job with colour negative scans, but as the case is with all black-boxed scanning software, it can also diminish the scan’s potential without an easy way to fix the issues).